The 2004 Traminer Auslese, from around half-and-half healthy and botrytised fruit, was harvested a month after the Smaragd. This smells of fennel, rose petals, and bacon fat. Honey and roses abound on the palate, yet the wine retains an insistent, invigorating juiciness and spice. The finish is subtle bitter sweet but lacks the carrying power of the corresponding Smaragd. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

The 1999 Traminer Loibner Auslese (it has too much residual sugar to qualify for the Wachau's Smaragd rating) is a broad, semi-sweet wine crammed with spices. This light to medium-bodied wine is tailor-made to accompany spicy Vietnamese cuisine. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. While Americans can be found knocking on the doors of Burgundian estates every day of the year, only 5-10 per year stop at Weingut Emmerich Knoll. This statistic is bound to change as Americans come to appreciate the stunning wines Austria, and this winery, produce regularly. One of Austria's finest wineries, Knoll produces ageworthy wines that are more restrained and elegant than their good friend (and competitor) F. X. Pichler.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700