The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet was one of the lowest-yielding cuvées chez Sauzet this year, and it's a ripe, powerful wine. Mingling notes of honeycomb, orange oil and pear with hints of fresh bread, white flowers and crushed chalk, it's medium to full-bodied, rich and textural, with a deep core of fruit and succulent acids. It will be interesting to revisit it in bottle.

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet has turned out nicely, wafting from the glass with an inviting bouquet of pear, citrus pith, toasted almonds, white flowers and wet limestone. Medium to full-bodied, layered and textural, it's lively and saline, with good depth at the core.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet unfurls in the glass with a superb bouquet of citrus oil, crisp green apple, wheat toast, freshly baked bread and mandarin, followed by a medium to full-bodied, satiny and complete palate that's deep and layered, underpinned by incisive acids and concluding with a long, mineral finish. It's hard to choose between this and the more muscular, introverted Combottes, but both are worth a special effort to seek out.

The 2016 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ Canet is more in line with the La Perrière: a strict, no-frills bouquet with flint and cut grass aromas. The palate is well balanced with a slightly waxy texture. This is a more resinous Puligny from Sauzet in 2016, more about the texture than overt fruit expression, although it lets its hair down with that dash of white pepper on the aftertaste. My intuition is that it might be one of the more forward wines from the domaine this year. Not bad, however, not as good as the 2015 last year.