The 2009 Chassagne-Montrachet emerges from 40 year-old vines in Les Enseigneres. It is a gorgeous wine laced with flint, slate, smoke and sweet yellow stone fruits. I especially like the minerality and fine grain of the finish. The Chassagne should drink well for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012+. This is a beautiful set of wines from Etienne Sauzet. Proprietor Gerard Boudot emphasized the importance of keeping yields low and picking early. The harvest began on September 7. Boudot did a very light batonnage, and the wines saw approximately 20% new oak. The 2009s were bottled beginning in August 2010, but the premier and grand crus weren’t bottled until March 2011. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

The Sauzet 2007 Chassagne Montrachet – from a single parcel just south of Puligny Les Enseignieres and east of Batard-Montrachet – mingles fresh pear and apple with a rather hard chalkiness, while displaying considerable amplitude. I would plan to enjoy this over the next 2-3 years. Gerard Boudot harvested the majority of his fruit during the first week in September, after what he considered to have been one last, critical week of ripening, and believing that it was more important to retain ripe acidity than go for a bit more potential alcohol. He reports having chaptalized selectively – largely at village level and to a very small degree – but the wines top out below 13% finished alcohol. Boudot did a rigorous selection not, he claimed, to remove rot but to cull any under-ripe berries and bunches. All of his 2007s were bottled by March, 2009 after their having spent 5-6 months assembled in tank, a period of passive watchfulness that is among diverse aspects of Boudot’s regimen to have been adjusted in recent years in response to high incidence of wines from the late ‘90s that displayed excessive oxidization after a half dozen years. The regimen of new oak here, incidentally, is 20-25% for the premier crus (with the exception of a bit more on Combettes), and never stands out as a factor detectable in itself. (The wines of this domaine legally belong to two entities, that of Domaine Etienne Sauzet and the company consisting of Boudot and his wife. In addition fruit is acquired for a few bottlings on long-term contract. I have not attempted to call attention to these differences in my notes, and in fact numerous crus represented here have multiple official owners.) Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802