This dense, impenetrable Sangiovese has wild blueberry backed by a creamy, almost milky, structure. It is soft and lush with round tannins and lingering spice notes on the finale. ——M.L.(2/1/2009)—— 87

The 2006 Sangiovese Don Camillo is another wine that suffers from the temptation of trying to do too much. Though well-made, the extreme jammyness of the fruit covers any varietal nuance, which is a shame, because the raw materials might have yielded a far more elegant wine. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2010. These new releases from Farnese offer exceptional quality for the money. The wines are clean, correct and delicious, as long as the estate doesn’t stray too far from its core strength of making simple, well-made wines. Farnese offers two ranges in the value category, the first of these is a line of simple, varietal wines, while the Casale Vecchio series consists of special selections. Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900