The 2007 PRETA is a blend of Touriga Nacional (50%), Alicante Bouschet (35%) and Cabernet Sauvignon, aged for 18 months in French oak. There were 500 cases produced. The oak is too prominent here on opening, but I admired its structure and intensity and it continued to evolve as it aired out. The intense aromatics and sweet flavors, largely oak induced, will be appealing to many, although oak-a-phobes may demur. Elegant in the mid-palate, this should hold long enough to give the oak some chance to integrate. Whether the price spike over this winery's good value, lower level wines is worth it, well, that's up to you. Certainly, this seems to me to be the best structured wine in the lineup reviewed this issue with the most upside, sex appeal and depth. Drink now-2017. Fita Preta Vinhos is a joint venture between viticulturist David Booth and oenologist Antonio Macanita. As David Booth told me, they have themselves wavered on how they wanted the producer name spelled one word, as I've listed it in the past, consistent with what one usually sees on the front of the labels; or two words, as the formal name of the company is spelled. Their final decision one word, but don't be surprised if you see it both ways as Fita Preta is in fact two words, meaning 'Black Ribbon.' Stylistically, in case you are wondering, the brand names signify different things. The 'Sexy' wines tend to be ripe and accesible and use international grapes. For some reason, it is hard to find 'Fita Preta' anywhere; it is in tiny print on the back label. While I'm always scared of brands that seem to be more interested in marketing than winemaking, these have turned the corner and are showing pretty well. The regular Tintos and Brancos, with just Fitapreta on the label, are a bit more focused and use Southern Portuguese grapes. The Palpite and Preta are specialty, upper level brands.Importer: Wine Bridge Imports, Davis, Ca; tel: (530) 574-1157; in New York only: A&R Wine Imports, White Plains, N.Y.; Info@WestchesterWineImports.com

The 2005 PRETA is a Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon blend, but this time the Touriga Nacional is clearly dominant, at 73% of the blend. Like its 2004 sibling, this shows bright and succulent. Unlike its sibling, there is no herbaceousness here, and the brightness doesn’t turn tart. Perhaps it is just the relative youth, but this 2005 also shows more intensity and more grip on the finish than the 2004. Pleasing and flavorful, graceful and elegant, this finishes well, with lingering flavors, and evolves nicely for a couple of hours. The mid-palate is modest, and the wine may, like the 2004, tend to thin with age and air, but it is quite attractive. Drink now-2014.This new operation, meaning “Black Ribbon,” in Portuguese, features viticulturist David Booth, who spent a year at UC Davis, among other places, and oenologist Antonio Macanita, who worked at Merryvale, Rudd and Lynch Bages. The marketing here can be deemed odd or clever, depending on your predilictions, from the inexpensive “Sexy” Tinto, to the ominous black bottles on the Preta that do not even display a vintage on the front.

The 2004 PRETA is a welcome and big step up. It is a nearly equal blend of Touriga Nacional and Cabernet Sauvignon. This has its moments, from nice balance, to a refreshing, bright finish. It is elegant, bright and graceful, with a lively, refreshing finish. There is a certain herbaceous note on the finish that does not overwhelm the wine and that is balanced out by nice fruit flavor. The mid-palate does thin fast with air, and the wine turns a bit tart when it does. There were approximately 500 cases produced. It runs about 22 Euros in Portugal. Drink now-2011. This new operation, meaning “Black Ribbon,” in Portuguese, features viticulturist David Booth, who spent a year at UC Davis, among other places, and oenologist Antonio Macanita, who worked at Merryvale, Rudd and Lynch Bages. The marketing here can be deemed odd or clever, depending on your predilictions, from the inexpensive “Sexy” Tinto, to the ominous black bottles on the Preta that do not even display a vintage on the front.