The 2011 Langhe Bianco Pietracine is unusually big, rich and textured in this vintage, which also means that, unlike most years, it will be accessible upon release. Today, the fruit is quite primary, and it is the wine’s texture that stands out most. Readers who prefer more aromatic and flavor complexity will want to cellar the 2011 for at least another year or two, but it is already hugely delicious. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. Aldo and Milena Vajra are among the quietest and most introspective of Piedmont’s top echelon growers. It is the wines that do the talking here, and they do that ever so eloquently. The estate’s continued focus on excellence throughout their entire range comes through in spades in these new releases. One of the most interesting wines I tasted during my most recent visit might never be released, but it speaks to the high level of quality that is synonymous with the Vajra name. Some years ago, the Vajras purchased a plot in the Ravera vineyard planted with Nebbiolo. The vineyards are now about 15 years old, but the Vajras have never released a Barolo from this site because they don’t think the wine is important enough for their label. I tasted the 2008 from tank and can only say most producers would kill to have a wine of this level in their cellar. But at Vajra, it remains a work in progress. I hope the Vajras will decide to bottle this Barolo one day, as it seems a crime to deprive the world of this terrific Barolo. For those who are wondering, the Ravera is closer to the Barolo Bricco delle Viole than the Barolo Albe stylistically. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808; Rinascimento Wine Company, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 270-3747

The 2010 Langhe Bianco Pietracine is Vajra’s Riesling from Alsatian clones. The 2010 shows gorgeous textural richness, which is unusual for this wine when it is young. Lime peel, citrus and light floral honey are some of the notes that wrap around the energetic finish. Ideally, this needs a few years to develop the full breadth of its aromas and flavors, but is already quite beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. This is another superb set of wines from Aldo and Milena Vajra. What else is new? I am sure one day the Vajras will receive the broader recognition they so richly deserve. In the meantime, savvy readers know the exceptional quality these wines deliver for what remain very modest prices. Importers: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808, Rinascimento Wine Company, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 270-3747