Like all of these 2005s from Dorigo, the 2005 Pignolo di Buttrio is virtually impenetrable. The wine’s concentration and depth are admirable, but the wine needs time to find its inner balance. As always, the Pignolo tannins are formidable, and the wine will offer its greatest pleasure when paired with similarly full-bodied dishes. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2023. These 2005 reds from Dorigo are all very concentrated and tannic, an approach that seems to have sacrificed a measure of elegance. As is often the case, I come away from tasting these wines thinking quite a bit of potential remains untapped, especially considering the prestigious location of many of the estate’s vineyards. Importer: Panebianco LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 685-7560

Dorigo’s 2004 Pignolo di Buttrio reveals unusual complexity in this vintage. Sweet menthol, licorice and spice aromas waft out of the glass as this massive, imposing wine opens up. Graphite, coffee beans and sweet herbs emerge, adding further dimensions of complexity and nuance. Ultimately though, this is a wine whose balance favors an expression of sheer power and size, and within that context it is quite successful. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This venerable Friulian producer excels with their reds, particularly at the high end. Importer: Panebianco LLC, New York, NY; tel. (212) 685-7560