The 1995 Marques de Velilla Reserva reveals a dark ruby color, as well as notes of French oak intermixed with underbrush and damp, foresty smells. It is a medium to full-bodied, straightforward example with good grip and fine concentration, but not enough depth and complexity to merit a higher point score. It should drink well for a decade. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

An impressive wine from Ribera del Duero, the dark plum/garnet-colored 1994 Marques de Velilla Reserva is 100% Tinta del Pais from older vines. The explosive aromatics offer cigar smoke, cedar, fruitcake, black cherries, licorice, and smoke. The wine is rich, with outstanding concentration, a multi-layered, opulent texture, full body, and a chewy, dense, heady finish. This is a sumptuous, rich wine to drink now and over the next decade.Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates From Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767