The vintage was kind to early ripeners, like the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that constitute this bubbly. It’s enormous in strawberry, raspberry, orange and lime flavors, with an exotic spiciness, but despite the richness it’s fundamentally dry. Treads the line between soft approachability and acidic ageability, offering the choice of pleasurable drinking now, or cellaring through the decade to see how it develops.——S.H.(12/15/2011)—— 93

The 2002 Brut LD is meant to be one of Iron Horse’s top offerings. It is a 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir aged a whopping seven years on the yeast in the bottle. Production is one of the most limited at 550 cases. A complex nose of brioche, honeysuckle, nectarines, white peaches, and orange blossoms is followed by a rich, full-bodied, stunning sparkler revealing tiny bubbles, and lots of texture, richness, and length. A tour de force in domestic sparkling wine, it should drink nicely for another 3-4 years. This is an impressive group of sparkling wines from Joy Sterling and her team at Iron Horse.Tel. (707) 887-1507; fax (707) 887-1337

Made from equal amounts of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this wine was aged on the lees for more than four years, which gives it a fabulous creamy, yeasty complexity. There are tantalizing flavors of limes, orange zest, roasted hazelnuts, minerals and smoke. Absolutely wonderful now, and should hold and develop in the bottle through 2014, at least. Only 563 cases produced.——S.H.(12/31/2009)—— 96

A very great success that’s picking up some charry, smoky, old yeast notes in addition to the rich lime and white peach, but it’s as fresh as can be. Vibrant in acids, with a refined, smooth texture, and very dry, it’s the epitome of elegance. Still young. Drink now through this decade.——S.H.(12/31/2004)—— 93

Delicious and mature, this sparkler was held on its lees for seven years. Lovely baked bread, vanilla, pear spice and smoke aromas open to a rich palate of bread, citrus, dried fruit and deep earthy flavors. The mouthfeel is even and round with modest bead and mousse, and it finishes dry and long. The sparkle is a little faint, but the flavors vibrant and complex.——W.E.(12/1/2001)—— 91