The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Benoites bursts with expressive aromas of waxy citrus rind, white flowers, mandarin and honeycomb, subtly framed by a touch of spicy new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, satiny and succulent, with a fleshy core and a vibrant but expansive finish.

The 2016 Chassagne Montrachet les Benoites felt closed on the nose at first, but it opens nicely with limestone and pine cones scents infusing the green apple notes. I admire the detail here. The palate is fresh and taut on the entry, a fine thread of acidity, a brush of clear honey toward the gentle but caressing finish. Simple but lovely.

Like the Meursault Les Pierres, the 2015 Chassagne Montrachet les Benoites was a touch closed on the nose, opening with aeration to reveal a fleshy bouquet of stone fruit and flowers. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, honeyed and nicely concentrated, again quite taut: I'd expect it to unfurl over the next six months and offer pleasure for the better part of a decade.

The 2014 Chassagne Montrachet les Beno?tes has a comely bouquet with apricot blossom and peach skin. Lovely! The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp acidity, lively in the mouth with pleasing salinity lingering on the finish. This deftly treads that fine line between commercial appeal and intrinsic quality.