The most youthfully reserved but also the most promising of Chartron's premiers crus is the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret, a fine effort that opens in the glass with notes of citrus oil, struck match, crisp green orchard fruit and pastry cream. Medium to full-bodied, tensile and tightly wound, it needs some bottle age to bounce back from its recent bottling, but there's lots of potential here.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos du Cailleret offers up notes of mandarin, lemon oil, smoke, dried white flowers and candle wax. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, with a tighter-knit, more tensile profile than the Clos de la Pucelle, built around tangy acids and chalky extract. This looks to be the finest premier cru in the Chartron cellar this year. Chartron will also be releasing a small barrel selection as a "Cuvée Centennaire" to commemorate the acquisition of this clos in 1917.