Savory herbs, anise, fennel and nectarines inform the 2011 Chardonnay Seco Highlands. Exotic and beguiling, the Seco Highlands captures the essence of the Rued clone (predominant in this wine), which is known for its aromatic complexity. Bright saline notes support the expressive fruit. The barrel-fermented Seco Highlands Chardonnay is another immensely promising wine from Kendall-Jackson. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Once again, I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted at Kendall-Jackson. Virtually all of these wines are also relatively easy to find and exceptionally well-priced. There is little question Kendall-Jackson is a well-oiled machine. The discipline and professionalism of all the winemakers I tasted with is remarkable for such a large operation.Tel. (800) 769-3649

The 2010 Chardonnay Highland Estates Seco Highlands is an intensely aromatic, tropical Chardonnay. It boasts gorgeous textural richness to match the wine’s exotic flavor profile. This is an unusual wine, but it works. I would have guessed there might be some Viognier or other aromatic variety in the blend, but according to winemaker Mark Theis, it is the Rued clone that gives the wine its bouquet. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. I must say I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Kendall-Jackson. Qualitatively the wine are head and shoulders above the vast majority of what is available in the same price points, but what amazes me most is Kendall-Jackson’s ability to achieve such a high average level of quality with production levels that are truly eye-popping. In 2010, which was not an abundant year, Kendall-Jackson produced nearly 2,000,000 cases of the flagship Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay. This is a brilliant showing from winemaker Randy Ullom and his team comprised of Matthew Smith (reds) and Mark Theis (whites).Tel. (800) 769-3649; www.kj.com

In total contrast, minerality, lemon zest, crushed rock, white currants, and stone fruits dominate the crisp 2008 Highland Estates Chardonnay Seco Highlands. This is a far more mineral-dominated wine, but it’s not lacking fruit, given the strong white peach notes that come through in this wine’s aromatic profile. Drink between now and 2012. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

Combines rich, vibrant acidity with fruity intensity in a very clean, opulent wine. Offers waves of tropical fruits, honeysuckle, buttered toast and minerals, with a long, spicy finish. The extensive new oak is perfectly in keeping with the size of this crowd-pleaser. Now–2014.——S.H.(5/1/2010)—— 92