The 2006 Merlot Howell Mountain (from what used to be called the Liparita Vineyard until the Jackson family bought it) is a dense ruby/purple-tinged wine displaying notes of crushed rocks, black raspberries, cherries, and white chocolate. It should drink nicely for 10-15 years. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

California Merlot doesn’t get much better than this. Shows the tannic weight and density of its mountain origins, a huge, gigantic Merlot that will take some cellaring. But it’s fully drinkable now for the ultra-rich black currant, licorice, grilled meat, mocha and cedar flavors.——S.H.(6/1/2009)—— 94