Another offering I have not seen before is the 2005 Chardonnay Hirsch Vineyard. Tasting like a steely Chablis with the addition of tannin and a damp earth note, I suspect this terroir-based Chardonnay will be somewhat controversial with an either “l(fā)ove it or leave it” style. It is a very distinctive, impeccably well-made effort with laser-like acidity and wonderful concentration, but its singular, almost overwhelming minerality and tannin makes it less appealing than its siblings. It should age well for a decade. Kistler Vineyards, undeniably one of the world’s finest winemaking estates, is run with passionate dedication to detail and quality by Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler. It is wines like these that keep an old critic like me inspired and energized.Previously recommended: 2004 Chardonnay Durell Vineyard (91-93), 2004 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch (93-95), 2004 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard (92-94), 2004 Chardonnay Hyde Vineyard (94-96), 2004 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard (94-96+), 2004 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Cathleen (95-97), 2004 Chardonnay McCrea Vineyard (92-94), 2004 Chardonnay Vine Hill Vineyard (94-96), 2004 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvee Elizabeth (96-98), 2004 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard (92-94), 2004 Pinot Noir Kistler Vineyard Cuvee Catherine Occidental Station (94-95).Not yet released.Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709

A new offering, the 2002 Chardonnay Hirsch Vineyard reveals aromas of lemon zest and earth along with big, rich, full-bodied flavors revealing hints of honeyed grapefruit, lemons, and white peaches. Built for the long haul, with considerable intensity, it should drink well for 7-8 years. (Not yet released)Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709

From a vineyard associated more with Pinot Noir than Chardonnay, the 2001 Chardonnay Hirsch Vineyard exhibits a light gold color as well as a big, earthy, mineral-filled bouquet with notions of scorched smoke, citrus oil, and a striking liquid stone character. This structured, nearly tannic Chardonnay should hit its prime in 1-2 years, and last for 5-7. Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709