The 2006 Riserva Nebbiolo was made by Chris Ringland. It has a lovely nose of cherry blossom, cassis, and road tar. Elegant on the palate with good depth, savory flavors, and the structure to evolve for 2-3 years, this impeccably balanced wine will offer prime drinking from 2012 to 2018. Importer: The Country Vintner; www.countryvintner.com.au

Most of Longview’s portfolio proved competent but uninspiring. Not so for the 2005 Nebbiolo Riserva produced for Longview by the renowned grizzled vigneron Chris Ringland. Dark ruby-colored, it delivers a superb perfume of tar, roses, and cherry, with just a hint of oak. Intense, focused, and layered, it has beautifully integrated oak, tannin, and acidity, and a long, pure finish. Nebbiolo has no track record in South Australia but this gorgeous effort should evolve for 5-7 years and drink well from 2013 to 2025.