Aromas of citrus zest, dried white flowers, crisp Anjou pear, freshly baked bread and a touch of youthful reduction introduce de Montille's 2019 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, a medium to full-bodied, chiseled and concentrated wine that's taut and layered, with fine depth at the core and a long, saline finish.

One of the most tensile, introverted whites in the cellar is the 2018 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, a medium to full-bodied, chalky and incisive wine redolent of pear, white flowers and crushed rocks. This shows plenty of potential, but it really needs more élevage to show all its cards.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets offers up a nuttier, more reductive bouquet than the Folatières, wafting from the glass with notions of toasted bread, lime zest and crisp green apple. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and tangy, with a tense, tight-knit core, chewy dry extract and good grip on the long finish. It's one of the high points of de Montille's 2017 collection.

This was a very strong showing from Domaine de Montille's 2015 Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Caillerets, a taut, intense wine that offers up aromas of toasted nuts, citrus pith and a framing of smoky reduction. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, beautifully glossy and pure, with considerable concentration, bright balancing acids and a long, lingering finish. In its reductive, incisive style, this is an extremely successful contemporary white Burgundy.

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets is richer and deeper than the Champ Gains. Here the fruit tends towards yellow stone fruits. The minerality is a bit subdued by the wine’s layers of seductive, enveloping fruit. A creamy, deep finish rounds things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2014+. (Not yet released)Alix de Montille is going for a taut style with the whites she makes at the Domaine and at Deux Montille, the negociant operation she runs with her brother Etienne. The 2009s are quite strong across the board. Unfortuantely I was only able to taste a partial lineup of the 2010s (for both the Domaine and Deux Montille) as several of the wines were still in malo. Based on what I tasted in barrel, 2010 is a much more exciting vintage here, and one that gave de Montille the perfect conditions to make wines in her style. The 2010s show enormous promise. I can hardly wait to taste them in finished form. The wines from Domaine de Montille are reviewed separately.Various American importers, including: Martin Scott Wines, Little Neck, NY; tel. (516) 327-0808