From a parcel on the sunny side of this climat that's the source for the domaine's sélection massale, the 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir unwinds in the glass with aromas of sweet citrus oil, honeycomb, yellow plum and green apple. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fleshy and elegantly textural, with succulent acids, vibrant flavor and a nicely defined, floral finish.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir unfurls in the glass with notes of fresh peach, citrus peel, crisp pear and nutmeg. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and textural, with an open-knit, charming profile but good balancing acids, concluding with a saline finish. It was fermented and matured in barrels used between once and five times.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudesir has a well-defined, vervain tea-tinged bouquet with fine mineralité, although it is more austere than I was anticipating given a vintage with decent focus. The palate is very well balanced with pretty orange zest and marmalade notes that render this Vaudésir quite tangy in the mouth. It appears to have improved in bottle, although I would like to see more complexity develop on the finish. As such, I would keep this in the cellar for another couple of years.

The 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir was picked on 19 September. It has a delineated bouquet with scents of white peach and brioche, a touch of smokiness developing with continued aeration. The palate is well balanced with nectarine and orange zest on the entry, a keen line of acidity, very fine precision with a touch of spiciness on the long finish. This should turn into a delicious Vaudésir.

The 2013 Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir comes from 1.4-hectares: two parcels divided by a small track that includes the oldest vines of the estate that are vinified apart. It is more expressive on the nose compared to the Bougros as expected: citrus lemon, yellow flowers and here, a touch of orange rind. The palate is well balanced, again quite rounded in texture with flecks of orange rind and ginger. There is a little more weight and concentration on the finish compared to the Bougros, ergo it is a little prettier at this early stage.