The 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Les Perrières has the edge over the Chevalier-Montrachet this year, opening in the glass with notes of lemon pith, lime, white flowers, blanched almonds and struck flint. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied and quite taut and vibrant, with chalky grip on the finish.

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Perrières is much more reticent on the nose compared to the Poruzots. The palate has a candied entry with orange sorbet and apricot notes, good depth in the mouth with a fine line of acidity, although it does not really get to grips with the mineralité of the vineyard on the finish. It’s a joyful Meursault but not a top-drawer Perrières.