The Malat 2007 Das Beste vom Riesling picks up on the smoky, nutty, piquantly peach kernel themes introduced by the Silberbuhel, and shares as well its glossy richness and full body. Here though, added sweetness of peachy fruit and enveloping, honeyed richness (although the wine harbors a mere five grams of residual sugar) come at the expense of a bit of clarity and finishing focus. Still, this is an imposing wine that will merit at least 4-5 years of attention. Only the two lightest of Gerald and Michael Malat’s Gruner Veltliner were harvested in October, the rest in November. “We simply had to wait for things to dry out,” explains Gerald Malat, “and to me there is a clear difference between any of the wines harvested before and those harvested after the big rains. Those harvested long enough afterward are more multi-layered.” Among the most notable characteristics of this estate is the sheer number of grape varieties with which it often succeeds. But while Gruner Veltliner and Riesling here were notable in quality this year, intensely aromatic Muskateller and Sauvignon bottlings were too brusque and coarse to merit high recommendation. A sampling of Pinot Gris from barrel was promising but will need to be re-tasted for a proper appraisal. It is good to know that the wines of this estate may soon gain wider distribution in the U.S., but due to the recent change in importers, retail prices were not yet available for any of their 2007s.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

Peppermint and lavender scent the 2006 Das Beste vom Riesling, which displays intensely concentrated herb, dried peach, peach kernel, and citrus zest on the palate, and a palpable sense of extract that extends to a positively chewy length. This dense and impressive wine is short on charm, but well worth following for a few yearsLike many growers along the Danube, Gerard Malat began harvesting already in mid-September to insure some light-weight wines appropriate to summer, 2008 consumption, and finished at the end of October. From three sites in the Hohlgraben,Importers: Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870.

This wine was recommended, but no tasting note was given.Various importers including Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870