Once again demonstrating their remarkable aptitude and that of their vineyards, the Malats’ 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon is a classic expression of its grape that should merit at least 4-6 years of attention from bottle. Smelling of mulberry, cassis, and tobacco, with an overlay of toasted nuts and smoky, spicy oak, it displays persistent juiciness and fine-grained tannin, finishing with excellent depth of fruit and well-integrated fruit skin and toasted nut bitterness.Only the two lightest of Gerald and Michael Malat’s Gruner Veltliner were harvested in October, the rest in November. “We simply had to wait for things to dry out,” explains Gerald Malat, “and to me there is a clear difference between any of the wines harvested before and those harvested after the big rains. Those harvested long enough afterward are more multi-layered.” Among the most notable characteristics of this estate is the sheer number of grape varieties with which it often succeeds. But while Gruner Veltliner and Riesling here were notable in quality this year, intensely aromatic Muskateller and Sauvignon bottlings were too brusque and coarse to merit high recommendation. A sampling of Pinot Gris from barrel was promising but will need to be re-tasted for a proper appraisal. It is good to know that the wines of this estate may soon gain wider distribution in the U.S., but due to the recent change in importers, retail prices were not yet available for any of their 2007s.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com

Malat’s 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, grown on sandy, gravelly riverside soils and incorporating approximately 10% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, displays a robe of healthy though not terribly dark red. Scents of mulberry, tobacco and vanilla lead to a palate in which marrowy meatiness and a rich satisfying sweetness are ornamented by notes of toasted nuts, plums, graphite, and high-toned Franc- and Merlot-like florality. Soft, fine tannins permit this to be enjoyed early, and the finish is satisfyingly long and full of fruit. Various importers including Morandell Imports, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (310) 328-5010 and Rosalie Sendelbach Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 260-1870