In the bottle with the black label, the Masi 2018 Brolo Campofiorin Oro (in a heavy glass bottle) is packed with black fruit, spice and a full-bodied texture. This wine lays all its intensity straight at you. The blend is 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta. Production is a big 190,000 bottles.

The Masi 2017 Brolo Campofiorin Oro is very richly saturated and dense with thick layers of ripe black fruit. Of course, much of that intensity is owed to the very hot and dry conditions of the 2017 growing season. The wine's concentration doesn't go too far, however, and there is enough acidity and primary intensity to keep things bright, crisp and impactful. This blend of 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta is sourced from the Campofiorin vineyard in Marano. It should hold steady until the 10-year mark. Production is 240,000 bottles.

The Masi 2016 Brolo Campofiorin Oro reveals pretty sharpness and tight lines, as you should expect to see from a wine from a classic vintage such as this. This expression is tightly knit and immediate in delivery. It lays forth its aromas of pressed cherry, blackberry, spice and sweet tobacco in a carefully measured and balanced fashion. You even perceive a hint of minerality that you don't often get with air-dried fruit. There is a touch of tannic firmness on the close that might work well across from a steak with a mushroom cream sauce. The blend is 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta, all aged in Slavonian oak casks for 24 months. Bottle production is 240,000.

This was a surprisingly seamless and tight rendition for such a difficult vintage. The 2014 Brolo Campofiorin Oro is a blend of 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Oseleta, and those two last grapes add broad richness and darkness to the wine. They also would explain the super tight nature of the fruit, which is surrounded by notes of smoke and tobacco. This is a great wine for a typical Veronese risotto al tastasal, a type of ground-sausage risotto. The wine ages in 600-liter casks from Verona, or fusti veronesi, for 24 months. Some 230,000 bottles were made.

A good value wine, the 2013 Brolo Campofiorin Oro opens to a velvety dark appearance and shows thick layers of dried fruit, prune, spice and leather. The intensity is strong, yet it remains a clear step below Amarone in terms of power and muscle. This vintage offers good structure at the back with light touches of sweet and sun-dried fruit. This is a great wine to pair with barbecued meat.