Intensely aromatic, the 2003 Puligny-Montrachet Le Levron Cuvee Speciale (white) is riddled with spices. Big, lush, rich, and suave, it is a light to medium-bodied wine with excellent depth of fruit. Pears, flowers, and candied minerals can be found in its extroverted personality. While not as long in the finish as Javillier’s other efforts, this is a beauty. Drink it over the next 6-7 years. Bravo to Patrick Javillier! A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93, importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; also imported by David Shiverick, Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800; and Wines Ltd., Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662

White flowers and minerals can be discerned in the nose of the light to medium-bodied 2002 Puligny-Montrachet Le Levron Cuvee Speciale. A highly detailed, pure, spicy wine, it is refreshing, well-delineated, and focused. Anticipated maturity: now-2009. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

Spiced pears are found in the wonderful nose of the 2001 Puligny-Montrachet Le Levron Cuvee Speciale. An expansive yet crystalline wine, its light to medium-bodied personality offers flavors reminiscent of fresh flowers and gravel. Fresh, pure, and delicately-etched, it will be at its best if consumed over the next 4-5 years. To Patrick Javillier, 2001 was a classic vintage with normal ripeness levels and problem-free fermentations, “I really don’t see where the problems are ... total acidity was in the 5.5 to 6.0 range and finished pHs were between 3.2 and 3.25, it’s all very classic.”

The smoke-scented 2000 Puligny-Montrachet Le Levron Mise Speciale displays excellent balance, density, and freshness. This is an extremely flavorful, medium-bodied wine packed with candied apples, spiced pears, and cinnamon. It is elegant, refreshing, and flavorful. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel. (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

The 1999 Puligny-Montrachet Les Levrons "Cuvee Speciale" was harvested before the rainstorms. Super-ripe pears intermingled with touches of sweet oak make up this wine's aromatic profile. In the mouth, tangy apples and fresh citrus fruits can be found in its medium-bodied and silky-textured character. It would have merited a better score if it had not been somewhat dry in the finish. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. Importers: David Shiverick, Langdon Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel (216) 861-6800, Wines Ltd, Hanover, MD; tel (800) 762-0662; and a Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910.