The Produttori del Barbaresco 2017 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is especially broad and thick in texture. It feels generous to the senses, wrapping thickly over the palate with a pretty mix of firm tannins and soft fruit fiber. These elements help to increase both the volume and the persistence of this classic wine. There is some dryness on the finish (and 15% alcohol), and you also taste crushed mineral and stone. Production is 10,000 bottles. I give this wine an edge in terms of future aging potential.

This Riserva pours from the bottle with a medium dark appearance, showing more color saturation and fruit concentration than the other wines in this series. The Produttori del Barbaresco 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico (with 10,136 bottles released) is a wine of power and density, and you sense this clearly in the aromatic determination and heft delivered here. (Like the other Riservas in this group, it clocks in at a 15% alcohol content.) The fruit tones veer toward dark purple and black, with plum and wild blackberries. There are earthy tones as well, with potting soil and iron ore. This wine plays its cards of volume and width with an expert hand, thanks to a blend of fruit from the vineyards of the Casetta, Grasso, Rocca and Vacca families.

The Produttori del Barbaresco 2015 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico boasts a solid center of gravity with dark fruit, plum, spice and spent embers. Everything about this wine is sultry, velvety and succulent. It goes to follow that the wine's structure is more pronounced, contoured and shapely. This Riserva delivers more sheer fruit weight (in the context of the always elegant Nebbiolo grape) that is carried with grace and poise throughout. Some 16,666 bottles were released.

The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico shows a darkly concentrated appearance and full-bodied appeal that is immediately obvious to all the senses, from eyes to nose to mouth. The wine is soft, round and thickly textured. I would have expected more acidity in these wines, but this vintage, at least, offers more sweet and dense fruit instead. You could taste it in its youth with a goose-liver paté, or cellar it for a couple of years and see where it goes.