The 2009 Reserva is an old vines field blend (with 69% of the grapes sourced from vines 80+ years old, and 31% Touriga Nacional from 10-15 year old vines). Seeming full in the mouth, with a velvety texture, this is sexier and richer than the regular Tinto, but its balance is nice and its structure beautiful. Tannins do emerge with air, as this wine fleshes out and wakes up. It evolves rather dramatically from the early impressions. It should be approachable early, but you would be well served waiting at least a year -- or three. There were 5,083 six-bottle cases produced. Drink now-2023. Importer: Quintessential, Napa, CA; tel. (646) 484-6411

An impressive wine from old vines. The 2009 has an extra depth of richness and full character. The black fruits go deep into the wine, hugely rich while still keeping a dark structure. Powerful and needing aging. ——R.V.(2/1/2012)—— 94

The 2008 RESERVA is 25% Touriga Nacional (from 10-15 year old vines) and 75% an old vines field blend (from 80+ year old vines) aged in new French oak for 17 months. This is a superb Reserva, built for the long haul, with powerful tannins and some astringency on the finish, a worthy competitor to the fine ’07 Reserva, making this a formidable one-two punch from Vallado. It has the best mid-palate concentration of this group of wines, and it should hold up to the tannins. The wine is already—partly!-- absorbing the oak, and seems better balanced the longer it airs out. It drank nicely the next day. Pointed and likely to develop quite well, this is a rather fine performance from Vallado. There were 15,810 bottles produced. Drink 2012-2026. The 2008 vintage in Portugal is probably not quite as consistent for reds as the 2007 vintage, and they are certainly differently styled, a little crisper and pointed, but on a winery-by-winery basis, some people did as well or better. Vallado seems to have put together a superb 2008 vintage. The wines seem bright and focused, with the structure to age and develop in the cellar. They are wines worth seeking out.Importer: Quintessential, 1932 Sierra Avenue, Napa, CA 94558 (707) 226-8300.

A vineyard selection from mature vines, the wine has tannins that meld easily into the firm, dark fruits, layered with acidity. It has a muscular quality, balanced by an elegant texture, bringing together the concentration of old vines and freshness from delicious red berry flavors.——R.V.(11/1/2010)—— 92