The 2014 Roussanne Bien Nacido Vineyard Hillside Estate, from a block planted in 1997 with the Tablas Creek clone, offers up an expressive bouquet of white truffle, beeswax, preserved lemon, smoke and quince. On the palate, the wine is texturally glossy and full-bodied, with lovely cut, energy and concentration and impressive reserves of depth and energy. While this is a rich wine, it remains bright and succulent and I'd expect it to develop beautifully in bottle.

A wine that needed lots of air to show its potential, the 2010 Roussanne Bien Nacido Hillside Estate is 100% Roussanne that saw all neutral oak. Still very tight and angular, with loads of mineral, honey blossom, lavender, vanilla bean and hints of green apple, it has solid concentration and loads of acidity on the palate. It will need 3-4 years of bottle age to become drinkable and age beautifully. Drink 2017-2025. Tel. (805) 937-9801; www.qupe.com

Racy acidity gives this wine a brisk, uplifted mouthfeel. It’s rich in honeysuckle, citrus and vanilla flavors. This is Qupe’s most expensive white wine and a fine example of a California Roussanne. ——S.H.(10/1/2011)—— 92