The 2010 Aglianico del Vulture Serpara is a noble and classic interpretation of this little-known appellation in southern Italy. This wine reflects all the volcanic nuances of the Vulture volcano with a vein of mineral purity that lies at the back of dark fruit and spice. There is unexpected softness here and this wine is more ready to drink than many of its peers. At the same time, it has the stuffing for long cellar aging.

An evolved and sophisticated expression, the 2008 Aglianico del Vulture Serpara gives us a great taste of the pedigree and potential of Aglianico del Vulture. This is a massively full-bodied wine with an inky dark and impenetrable appearance. The bouquet shows thick layers of dried blackberry, spice, leather, cola and tobacco. You'd be hard pressed to beat this massive level of vinous intensity. Polished, but firm, tannins characterize the mouthfeel and the wine shows elegant tertiary tones of ash, tar and licorice that give it extra momentum and persistence.

The estate’s 2007 Aglianico del Vulture Serpara impresses first and foremost for superb length and textural persistence. The aromas and flavors are nicely layered and delineated. If anything, the Serpara is almost too polished, as it places more emphasis on expression of fruit rather than the unique qualities of Aglianico from the Vulture. I also don’t find it meaningfully more complex than some of the estate’s entry-level offerings. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2019. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The 2006 Aglianico del Vulture Serpara is a rich, deeply-textured wine laced with dark red fruit, minerals, mint, game and flowers. Darker, smoky notes develop in the glass, adding further complexity and weight as the wine opens up over time. This dense, full-bodied Aglianico is the best wine I tasted from Re Manfredi this year. The Serpara can be enjoyed today for its fruit or cellared for at least a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

The estate’s 2003 Aglianico del Vulture Serpara is a fresher, more vibrant wine endowed with notable clarity in its violets, dark cherries, new leather, tobacco and spices. The wine possesses outstanding density which carries through all the way to the long, refined finish. This, too, is a wine best suited for enjoyment over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2013. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700