It is hardly surprising that Voerzio’s 2006 Dolcetto d’Alba explodes on the palate with a burst of blackberries, blueberries, tar, licorice, menthol and sweet spices. This plush, generous wine offers tons of length in a supple, intensely fruit driven style laced with balsamic overtones. It is a terrific effort. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. I remember visiting Roberto Voerzio’s Dolcetto vineyards in 2006 just before the harvest. Those plots were tended with just as much care as Voerzio lavishes on his Barolo vineyards, with tiny bunches per plant. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620