A good choice for a simple fried fish, the Ronco del Gelso 2017 Isonzo del Friuli Rive Alte Friulano Toc Bas opens to a crystalline and transparent appearance and a snappy, lean texture. The bouquet is bright and one-dimensional with minty apple, honeydew melon, wild sage and crushed mineral. Despite the warm conditions of the growing season, this vintage feels thinner compared to recent past editions. Some 25,000 bottles were made.

The 2015 Isonzo del Friuli Rive Alte Friulano Toc Bas is brimming with life. The nose opens to yellow fruit, summer-ripened peach, pear and honeydew melon. Those aromas are elegantly contoured by faint mineral tones of ash or crushed flint. The bouquet shows good intensity; it is bright and profound but never feels heavy. However, this wine specifically excels in the mouth, with creamy richness and soft fiber. It ages on the fine lees in large oak casks for one year. With 23,000 bottles made, you get terrific value here.

The oak-aged 2013 Isonzo del Friuli Rive Alte Friulano Toc Bas is a beautiful wine that is endowed with a great sense of inner richness and consistency. This is the Friulano grape in all its glory. The wine is layered and complex with pretty tones of apricot, preserved lemon, creamy vanilla and wild sage that adds lift and intensity. There is a note of sweet almond on the close and the wine delivers additional flavors of yellow fruit and melon. The 2013 vintage is slightly cooler and the acidity is well defined as a result. This is an excellent value wine.

The 2012 Isonzo del Friuli Rive Alte Friulano Toc Bas (aged one year in oak cask) caps the estate’s trilogy of excellent mono-varietal whites (along with Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio) with similar richness and impressive intensity. The smoothness and textural creaminess are outstanding and the wine leaves a long, polished finish that is enhanced by apricot, toasted almond and baked pineapple. This is a gorgeous Friulano that would taste wonderfully with grilled tilapia in mango salsa. Drink: 2014-2018. Importer: Vitis Imports, www.vitisimports.com

Toc Bas is a rich and layered wine with aromas of ripe fruit and honey-roasted almond with background tones of butterscotch and Golden Delicious apple. There’s a drying note of ash or crushed mineral at the end.——M.L.(3/1/2012)—— 87