The 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso stands out for the intensity and overall integrity of the bouquet. The wine feels like a super Tuscan (rather than a Chianti Classico Riserva) thanks to the layered richness and suppleness of the product. The thicker, redder soils of Castelnuovo Berardenga have played an important role in building up the quality of fruit that is so lavishly on display here. There’s a tight tannic bite at the end that gives a slight crunch to the finish.

The 2008 Chianti Classico Riserva Poggio Rosso is a big wine. Sweet dark cherries, flowers mint and licorice come alive in this vibrant, beautifully delineated Chianti Classico. The 2008 impresses for its inner perfume and pure sense of energy. It will require a few years to soften but is shaping up to be delicious. This is a terrific showing from San Felice. Gorgeous, strikingly pure aromatics redolent of succulent cherries, violets and roses linger on the intensely fragrant finish. The 2008 Poggio Rosso is 80% Sangiovese, 10% Colorino and 10% Pugnitello that spent 20 months in 500-liter French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028. Importer: Premium Brands, Forest Hills, NY; tel. (718) 263-4094