Diel’s 2004 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Auslese A.P. #14 is scented and flavored with white peach jam, quince jelly, banana oil, honey and marzipan. Creamily rich yet elegant like its Spatlese predecessor, with a long, honeyed finish, it narrowly misses the clarity of flavors or the remarkable sense of wafting delicacy that accrues to the best wines of this year’s collection. But I would not scorn an opportunity to cellar it for the long term. Incidentally, readers with the requisite disposable income are urged to explore Diel’s 2003 T.B.A. (from the Pittermanchen), which was unfortuitously also being bottled the day I visited. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300