Jed Steele has once again produced a bevy good Chardonnays, but I have to admit that the four 1995s I tasted did not possess the depth and richness of previous vintages. Acidity is higher, and while the wines are obviously well-made, fresh, and lively, they are not as concentrated as previous vintages. The 1995 Chardonnay Dennison Vineyard exhibits an attractive, pear liqueur-like personality, with copious quantities of ripe fruit, a good underpinning of crisp acidity, enticing tangerine notes, mineral-like flavors, medium body, and the hallmark of all Steele's wines - freshness, purity, and balance. This delicious Chardonnay should drink well for 1-2 years. Tel. (707) 279-9475

Revealing more toasty oak in its composition than the Chardonnay California, the medium to full-bodied 1994 Chardonnay Dennison Vineyard cuts a broad path on the palate. It offers an intriguing underlying mineral component along with its ripe, honeyed fruit. This well-knit, slightly tight wine promises to last for 1-2 years.Other than Kistler and Marcassin, it is unlikely readers will find a bevy of such consistently high quality Chardonnays from one particular vintage. All six 1994 wines reviewed in this segment merit an enthusiastic recommendation. Kudos to Jed Steele for another series of exciting wines.Tel. (707) 279-0213

The 1992 Chardonnay Dennison Vineyard is exceptional, fat, juicy, unctuously-textured, and full-bodied. This wine, which exhibits impassable vineyard sources and winemaking skills, should drink well for another 1-2 years. Kudos to Jed Steele!