Thin in fruit, with herb, mint and cherry flavors that have a Porty edge, and the lack of substance makes the oak stand out as caramelized. An awkward wine.——S.H.(4/1/2010)—— 81

Tastes like a dessert pastry, with baked cherry, cassis, peppermint, milk chocolate and anise flavors that are a little sweet and honeyed. Pleasant, but not impactful. Drink now.——S.H.(10/1/2008)—— 84

Very aromatic, with scents of violets, ripe cherries, chocolate wintergreen mints and smoky oak. This wine is polished and dry. It has a rich acid-tannin balance that calls for a nice barbecued steak. ——S.H.(11/15/2006)—— 87

Fewer regions are more sensitive to site selection for Merlot than Santa Barbara County. Put it in a cool spot, and it turns vegetal. This wine has some of those notorious asparagus flavors that can plague South Coast Bordeaux varietals. It’s extremely well made, but can’t overcome this basic shortcoming. ——S.H.(11/15/2002)—— 85

Lots of funky bacon grease on the nose, and some sulfur notes, too, ride atop underlying blackberries. Supple in the mouth, with soft tannins and sharp acids; thoroughly dry. Fairly simple, although it has a textural elegance. —S.H.——S.H.(4/1/2002)—— 86