Ripe, spicy aromas of cookie dough are found in the nose of the 2002 Macon-Bussieres Vieilles Vignes de Montbrison. Medium-bodied, rich, fat, concentrated, and honeyed, this expressive wine is already fully mature. Its maple, mineral, and poached pear flavors linger in its extensive finish. Drink it over the next 2 years.

Aromatically, the 2001 Macon-Bussieres Vieilles Vignes de Montbrison offers spicy liquid minerals. Light to medium-bodied, it is a satin-textured wine with lovely depth, breadth, and mouth-feel. Candied lemons are found throughout its flavor profile. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. "Given what Mother Nature did to us, the 2001 vintage cannot be great." With that pronouncement, Jean-Marie Guffens, the most forthright producer in Burgundy, began his discourse on the vintage.Overall, Guffens views 2001 as being at the quality level of 1998, with Chablis fairing the worst. "Officially, I score the 2001 Chablis at 12/20, but only after having noticed that everybody gets really angry with me when I say the truth," said Guffens with a sarcastic laugh. He later added that he would score the 2001 whites from the Cote de Beaune 15/20 and those from the Maconnais 14/20.The season was difficult throughout Burgundy from the flowering onwards according to Guffens. "This was a year, unlike 1999 and 2000, that severely punished those with high yields." His approach was to purchase only the finest lots he could find (as well as those he had to acquire in order to maintain allocations), and resell to other negociants those that weren't up to his standards. "I sold back 30% of what I'd purchased, at lower prices than what I had paid.."To Guffens, 2001 is a vintage to drink early. "Those with high yields and/or those who harvested early have unripe acidity, which ages very poorly, those who harvested later had low acidities, there seemed to be no middle ground in this vintage." In response to this dilemma, Guffens elected to bottle all his 2001s earlier than usual, "to trap the fruit in the bottle."Whereas many producers in France are feeling the crunch of the sluggish world economy, Guffens announced that "business is good at Verget, because we are producing less wine, have lowered our prices, and told our importers to do the same." He went on to add that Verget's business model, unlike those of traditional negociants, is to never hold stocks of wine. "We make what we can sell, sell it, then make what we can sell. We are not in the storage business."A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), various American importers, including North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910

Expressive liquid mineral and spice aromas can be discerned in the nose of the 2000 Macon-Bussieres Vieilles Vignes de Montbrison. Hugely concentrated and broad, this ample, medium-bodied wine is filled with well-delineated stone, quartz, and mineral flavors. It is broad, pure, and precise. Drink it over the next 8 A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 and North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699

The 1999 Macon-Bussieres Vieilles Vignes de Montbrison was harvested at 45 h/h and was produced from 80-year old vines. Acacia blossoms and minerals can be discerned in this beautiful wine's aromatic profile. It is medium-bodied, well-concentrated, deep, and offers layers of lush earth, minerals, and pears. This Chassagne-Montrachet look-alike also possesses a long, supple finish. Drink it over the next 5 years. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.