Fashioned from a famed sector of the same vineyard (one which every producer spells differently just to complicate things for consumers and wine critics alike), the 2004 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouqueyreaud detonates from the glass with intense quartz, almond, and mineral scents. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated, and ample, it is a powerful offering packed with rich waves of almond paste, lime zest, candied lemons, sea shells, and iodine. Perhaps this wine’s most impressive quality, however, is its awesomely long, silky-textured, salty mineral-laden finish. Drink it over the next 6-7 years.Jean-Marie Guffens, who has been strongly criticized by his importers and distributors for the frank comments of his I’ve quoted in The Wine Advocate, is much more circumspect than he once was. His view of the hierarchy of Burgundy’s white wine regions in 2004 coincides with my findings, “Chablis did best because it had 15 extra days before harvest, then the Maconnais, and lastly the Cote d’Or where yields figures were in the stratosphere...2004 started terribly, except for a hugely successful flowering, then July and August were as bad as anything I’ve seen – huge rains. We were unquestionably saved by the nice weather we had in September and through October 10.” To Guffens, “The latest harvested hillside vineyards produced the finest wines.” He reported declassifying numerous batches of grapes from the water-logged flats, and having to do enormous sorting out of grapes affected by rot. Moreover, alcoholic (until March, 2006) and malo-lactic fermentations dragged on for months on end.When asked his personal thoughts on the 2004s, Guffens said, “I adore drinking this vintage,” then he screamed “Drink it!” at the top of his lungs. The following notes are in the order the wines were served, as always, and reflect Guffens’s belief that the Cote d’Or fared worse in 2004 while the Chablisien performed best.A Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93; importers include North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (800) 266-6585; also a Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax #: 011-33-4-66-37-67-23, various American importers including Bacchus Importers; tel. (800) 525-9699

Ripe white fruits are found in the aromatics of the 2000 Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouquereaud. Medium to full-bodied and chunky, this is a satin-textured, pear and apple-flavored wine. Its character is lush, highly expressive, and possesses a long, fruit-filled finish. Projected maturity: 2004-2012. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700 and North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699

The Chablis Bougros Cote de Bouquereaud has a nose reminiscent of big, fat, super-ripe Red Delicious apples. Medium-bodied and delicious, it is well-made, concentrated, and vivacious. This vibrant wine should be at its peak of maturity between 2002 and 2007. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.