Consistently one of the finest values to emerge out of Burgundy, Verget's Macon-Villages Tete de Cuvee (81,000 bottles were produced in 1997) is an excellent wine. It reveals a sweet hazelnut cream, white flower, and spice-infused nose, as well as a medium-bodied, delineated, silky character. Readers searching for affordable bone-dry white Burgundies with the region's distinctive mineral flavor profile are well-advised to search for this wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2003. A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910, and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

The Macon Villages Tete de Cuvee is made from grapes that come from nine villages in the Maconnais. It is left on its lees for one year to give it fullness and flavor (most Macons have neither). An herbal spiciness in the nose with just a touch of smoke leads to an explosion of minerals, roasted fruit and spices in the silky-smooth mouth. Drink now-2000. A note on availability: Verget's top wines are sold on pre-arrival, making them very hard to find after they have been reviewed. I apologize for this inconvenience and will make every effort to taste them prior to their offering in the coming years.This note is the result of tastings I did in Burgundy between January 7 and January 29. Critics say that Verget wines will not age. The '95s have good fruit, balance and acid structure, all the components necessary for cellaring. Guffens also makes every effort to prevent oxygen from entering into contact with the wines because this can cause them to either oxidize or can stunt their ability to evolve in the bottle. When I asked Guffens about these comments on the aging ability of his wines, he scoffed and replied that some people believe that if a wine is good young it can't age well, "so maybe they should buy bad wine and age it," he said. Another criticism is that the wines all taste the same. After having tasted all of the '95s and having had a number of Verget wines from previous vintages the following is clear: Guffens pushes for silky textures and long finishes, and his wines are generally thick and often full-bodied. The only other similarity (and I was looking!) is an herbal spiciness that can be found on the nose of many of the wines. Most importantly, each wine reflects its terroir. Moreover, each wine is one of the finest examples of its appellation.Note: Guffens feels that 1996 is the most exceptional vintage of his lifetime. I would not repeat most growers' statements about the next "vintage of the century," but my experience in the retail trade established that Verget's wines usually sold prior to arrival, and were nearly impossible to find after reviews have been published.A Peter Vezan Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42654293), importers include: North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910 and a Patrick Lesec Selection (Paris Fax # 011-33-1-42843822), various American importers, including Bacchus Importers (800) 525-9699.

As the notes attest, Guffens is one of France's greatest white winemakers. The quality of his wines in so-so yers such as 1991 shames many famous names. In 1992 the overall quality level is extraordinary.Verget's excellent 1992 selections from Maconnais surpass many premier crus and grand crus from the Cote d'Or. The 1992 Macon-Villages-Tete de Cuvee is a rich, ripe, classic Macon with a spring flower garden and buttery, apple-scented nose, rich, admirably extracted flavors, medium body, fine underlying acidity, and a well-focused finish. It should drink well for 4-5 years - an uncommonly long time for a Macon. These are truly the wines of a genius. I suspect their quality is so high it will shake-up a lot of white burgundy producers who have been resting on their historical reputations for far too long. The wines of Guffens are proof of the great quality that can be achieved without compromise. For that, consumers who care should be thankful. Bravo to Jean-Marie Guffens-Heynen! A Peter Vezan Selection, various importers, including Estate Wines, San Rafael, CA, Ideal Wines & Spirits, Medford, MA, and Barrique Wine Co., Chicago, IL.