Mainly Clone 15 and entirely barrel fermented and aged in 40% new French oak (the balance goes into second and third-fill barrels), Villa Maria's 2019 Keltern Chardonnay is another classic vintage from this established star. Tighter and more mineral in style than many of its Hawke's Bay counterparts, it offers up hints of vanilla and toasted grain against a backdrop of subtle white peaches and lively citrus fruits. Medium to full-bodied, it's richly textured and layered on the palate yet with a crisp, long-lingering finish.

The medium to full-bodied 2018 Keltern Chardonnay reveals a wonderfully welcoming, generous feel on the palate, a soft, silky, cushion of leesy texture that effortlessly supports the bright citrus and pineapple fruit. I have a slight preference for the freshness of the 2019, but this vintage is no slouch, from the complex, intricate nose of toasted grain and grilled peach to the lingering, elegant finish.

Marked by hints of struck flint on the nose, the 2017 Single Vineyard Keltern Vineyard Chardonnay is tight and zesty, marked by lemon-lime notes and a strong acid spine. It's medium-bodied, with hints of toasted cedar and lemon custard on the palate and a long, lingering finish. It should be relatively long-lived for Hawke's Bay Chardonnay, capable of evolving for 4-5 years at least.

The 2012 Single Vineyard Keltern Vineyard Chardonnay has toasted nut and cedar characters predominating over notes of ripe peaches and apples plus a hint of allspice. At this youthful stage a good amount of oak stands out from the ripe stone fruit and spice flavors on the light to medium-bodied palate and ends up finishing long and a little woody. Since the fruit concentration is a little light this vintage, it’s hard to imagine the oak fading into the background with bottle age. Drink it now to 2016+. Imported by Ste. Michelle Estate, Woodinville, WA.

The 2011 Single Vineyard Keltern Chardonnay reveals aromas of mandarin peel, lemon zest and pineapple over toast, cedar, cashews and meal plus a pleasant touch of sulphides. Medium bodied and tightly wound on the palate, it has a great intensity of citrus and tropical flavors with well-balanced oak and acid, finishing long and savory. Drinking nicely now, it should cellar to 2016+. Importer: Ste Michelle Wine Estates, Woodinville, WA