Merlot lovers will enjoy Whitehall Lane's two fine examples of this varietal. The more ambitiously-styled 1995 Merlot Reserve Leonardini Vineyard reveals an opaque ruby/purple color, less expressiveness aromatically than the regular Merlot (it's more closed), and more toasty new oak. In the mouth, this wine possesses an extra dimension of richness and concentration. It is not as accessible as the regular Merlot, and over the next several years most readers will probably prefer the latter wine. Nevertheless, the Reserve Merlot is an excellent effort that should age well for 7-8 years. Tel. (707) 963-9454; Fax (707) 963-7035

Whitehall Lane has produced three well-endowed, deeply-colored, boldly-oaked, well-crafted wines. The 1994 Merlot Reserve Leonardini Vineyard is a more extracted, richer, earthier, more aggressively oaked wine with full body, admirable intensity, richness, and length, and a long, spicy finish. Although still youthful and unevolved, it promises to provide considerable enjoyment between now and 2010. Tel. (800) 963-9454

As a vociferous critic of the ocean of vegetal, washed-out, over-priced Merlots from California, I am amazed at how many Merlots have performed well in my tasting room over the last several months. While it is still a category filled with more duds than flavorful and fruit-filled wines, Whitehall Lane has hit the bull's eye with their dark ruby/purple-colored 1993 Merlot Leonardini Vineyard. It offers up intense scents of jammy, berry fruit, mocha, tobacco, cedar, and herbs. Full-bodied and supple, with moderate tannin, this is a large-scaled, compellingly rich, nicely textured Merlot for drinking over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (707) 963-9454