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A vintage port look-alike, the 2004 Potsorts (100% Touriga Nacional, one of the most noble Portuguese varietals) possesses an inky/blue/purple hue as well as a gorgeous nose of chocolate, graphite, blueberries, blackberries, incense, licorice, and spice. Aged in 1-2 year old French barrels, it is an incredibly intense, fiery, but well-balanced, super-pure, fortified wine that should last for 15 or more years. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552

One of the specialties of this house is their fortified vintage port look-alike made from Portuguese varietals planted in the Yarra Valley. The 2003 Potsorts is a wine of considerable richness with a blue/purple color as well as a fabulous perfume of melted asphalt, espresso roast, chocolate, blackberries, and minerals. Believe it or not, this peppery, spicy, amazing effort may have the length and longevity of a great vintage port.This artisinal winery produces what must be the most idiosyncratic/eccentric wines of Australia. They can be absolutely spectacular, or they can be distressingly irregular, one never knows which until the cork is pulled. I suspect if the late recluse of Chateauneuf du Pape, Jacques Reynaud, were reincarnated in Australia, he might be making the wines at this backwater address. Importer: Gavin Speight, Old Bridge Cellars, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 258-9552