The most expensive red is the 2005 Syrah Ascent. This is the biggest and most muscular and concentrated wine of Terre Rouge. Inky ruby/purple to the rim, with notes of charcoal, camphor, blackberry liqueur, tar, and a bit of acacia flower, ripe, full-bodied, and dense, but with plenty of structure, muscle and tannins, this wine should age nicely for a decade or more. This is an enviable winery turning out an entire portfolio of worthwhile wines, with some terrific values at the low end. Tel. (209) 245-3117; Fax (209) 245-5415

Impresses for the sheer volume of fruit, with explosive blackberry, cherry, cassis, chocolate, licorice, gingerbread, cola and smoky oak flavors. The structure is very fine, with rich, ripely smooth tannins and good acidity. Delicious now, and should remain so for several years.——S.H.(5/1/2008)—— 92