The 1990 Ciro Rosso Riserva Duca Sanfelice is a wine with an average bouquet, but a smashing finish. Bordering on being raisiny, it possesses a late harvest Zinfandel-like character with dense, rich, ripe fruit, an unctuous texture, thick, chewy flavors, full body, and plenty of alcohol. While it will never win awards for finesse or subtlety, it delivers plenty of gutsy, meaty, overripe berry fruit in a full-bodied format. Drink it over the next 4-5 years. This wine is made from the Gaglioppo grape, which is believed to have been first planted in this area in the boot of Italy by the ancient Greeks. Leonardo LoCascio, Winebow, Inc., 22 Hollywood Ave., Suite C, Hohokus, NJ 07423; telephone number (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869