Aromatically, the 1998 Gewurztraminer Goldert Vendange Tardive appeared to be in a reductive state, displaying leathery scents. Olivier Humbrecht maintains that these aromas are nothing more than this wine's expression of its deep minerality. On the palate, it is mind-boggling. Oily layers of intense mineral, floral (roses and violets), and red fruit flavors can be discerned in its hugely concentrated and powerful character. It is full-bodied, gorgeously detailed and balanced. Projected maturity: 2003-2014+. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.