“X” stands for “xistos” i.e. the schist soils of this 95% Albarino and 5% Treixadura. The 2010 X has a lucid hue with green tints in the glass. The nose is fascinating. Hints of dried honey, wet wool, wax resin and honeysuckle result in a bouquet that draws you in. The palate is very well-balanced and natural. Good acidity maintains freshness while the finish comes across more as a wine of texture than fruit intensity. Curiously, it is reminiscent of a fine mature Muscadet. Drink now-2020. Coto de Gomariz occupies 27 hectares of vineyard overlooking the Avia river in the DO of Ribeiro, on steep, granitic and sandy soils. Focusing on indigenous varieties and focused upon low yields, winemakers Ricardo Carreiro and Xose Lois Sebio are moving toward biodynamic tenets. Their wines, in particular the red, epitomize the potential of Spain’s more esoteric grape varieties when they are let loose on conscientious winemakers. Importer: Christopher Cannan; www.europvin.com; and in UK, agent is www.indigowines.com

This 100% Albarino from Ribeiro shows light orange blossom aromas. It’s chunky and almost chewy, with lightly pithy citrus flavors and roundness to the palate. Finishes a touch pithy and bitter, with white pepper notes. May already be starting to fade; drink right away.——M.S.(12/15/2011)—— 87