Gerald Malat is a seminal figure in winemaking in Krems, the first to match grape variety to soil type in a region previously dominated by small holdings and tiny vineyards. So it’s fitting that this Gruner Veltliner should power through with ripe, peppery fruit and flavors of apples, pears and spice. It needs a year or two to age. Imported by Morandell Imports. ——R.V.(5/1/2005)—— 90