The 1999 Great Estates Chardonnay Sonoma Coast is a sensational effort. It was aged 10 months in 100% French oak, and given extensive lees contact. This singular Chardonnay (3,652 cases) exhibits a big, smoky, leesy perfume of orange marmalade, honeysuckle, lemon rind, and ripe pineapples. This dense, rich, full-bodied, and terrific white will drink well for 3-4 years. This is an excellent value considering its high quality.Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5895

Held back probably to tame fierce acidity, and it’s still a young, lean, tart wine. Fresh, juicy flavors of lemons drink very clean and vibrant, but it’s austere stuff. Try with goat cheese on toast.——S.H.(8/1/2003)—— 88