Malvira’s 2011 Roero Arneis Renesio is gorgeous. An open, enticing bouquet redolent of smoke, lemon and crushed rocks emerges from the glass in this pure, crystalline wine. The 2011 is bursting with energy and focus. A light hint of floral-infused honey adds depth on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Malvira, one of the top estates in Roero, can usually be counted on for wines of distinction. This year’s set of new releases, however, is the most uneven I have ever tasted from the winery. The whites are strong, but all of the reds I tasted (including some that didn’t make it into this report) are disappointing to various degrees, especially considering the estate’s long track record. Various American importers, including: Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021; Domace Vino, Shoreview, MN; tel. (612) 501-5799; Dionysus Imports, Houston, TX; tel. (713) 822-8007