Last year I said the 1994 Jackass Hill (97 points) would become my benchmark Zinfandel, but the 1995 may surpass the 1994. Martinelli's most popular wine (until readers begin to discover just how exciting the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs are) remains the Jackass Zinfandel. Are the 1995s superior to the 1994? My tasting instincts suggest both efforts are as good. The landmark Jackass Hill Vineyard (an incredibly steep vineyard planted in 1887) produces spectacular wines.More and more wines made from small high quality producers such as Martinelli are being sold via a mailing list. Readers wishing to secure a bottle or two of their most limited production offerings should know what to do.Tel. (707) 525-0570; Fax (707) 525-9463

Medium garnet with touch of brick, the 1994 Zinfandel Jackass Hill is beautifully scented of potpourri, Chinese five spice, citrus peel, licorice and chargrill with a core of dried mulberries, preserved cherries and figs plus a touch of smoked meats. Full-bodied, super concentrated and still sporting a firm frame of chewy tannins, it delivers incredible freshness and a very long, savory finish.