The 2004 Riesling Auslese, from a mixture of Knoll’s best sites, smells of apple jelly, honey and brown spices. In the mouth, the wine is rich and creamy, though not at all heavy, and loaded with apple jelly, peach preserve and honey. Notes of truffle add nobly fungal complexity, and fresh lime notes provide bright juiciness. The grapes were pressed quickly and gently precisely to keep the wine (in Knoll’s word) “slim,” and that is exactly how the finish comes off: long and rich, yet delicate and bright. This may not be Wachau typical, but what a wine. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700