One of the great wines among the impressive 1993 line-up is the 1993 Tokay Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl. This is one of the few Tokays where no botrytis formed because of this vineyard's cool climate and well-drained soils. The wine puts on an amazing demonstration of power and finesse, with layers of opulently rich, creamy, honeyed fruit, fine acidity, and a dry, whoppingly long finish that lasts nearly a minute. When tasting this wine, I thought it to be extremely unevolved and youthful, with at least 10-15 years of aging potential. Its purity is something to behold. No one produces such dry, full-bodied, creamy, unctuously-textured Tokay Pinot Gris as the top Alsatian wineries. Tokay Pinot Gris is considered to be the Montrachet of Alsace. And they should be as many of these wines make a mockery of most Montrachets.The 1992 and 1993 wines reviewed in this issue are the wines of a genius. Importers: Wine Markets International, Inc., Woodbury, NY; tel. (516) 364-1850, and Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 525-1524

The 1993 Pinot Gris Clos Windsbuhl exhibits a green straw color with touches of gold. Its spice box, apricot, and herbal nose is just beginning to display the extraordinary bouquet that mature Pinot Gris is capable of. Medium-bodied and expressive, this is a broad, ample wine with a satin-textured, smoky pear flavored personality. It is entering its plateau of maturity, and should easily last another 8-10 years.