The 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon exhibits an opaque ruby/purple hue followed by pure, unevolved, black currant, raspberry, crushed rock, and spring flower-like notes. Very primary, it tastes more like a barrel sample than a finished wine, but it possesses enormous potential because of its combination of elegance, structure, and intensity. It should be forgotten for 7-8 years, and drunk over the following three decades. Tel. (888) 865-9463

Here’s one to put away for a while. Even though the warm vintage coaxed out oodles of black currants, blackberry and cherry pie filling, red plum and dry, unsweetened chocolate flavors, the wine has a tannic intensity that makes it a bit astringent. But it’s balanced and well-structured, so cellar, and should be best 2009–2012.——S.H.(7/1/2008)—— 90