Celebrating its 50th anniversary (1971-2021), the organic Pieropan 2021 Soave Classico Calvarino has a soft and richly textured side that is contrasted against the bright citrusy and mineral flavors that the Garganega and Trebbiano di Soave grapes are known for. This blend sees 70% of the first grape and 30% of the second, and the wine is aged in cement for up to 15 months. That's the special quality offered by Calvarino, a wine that is modern yet also rooted in local tradition. You get a lot of food-pairing potential out of this bottle, whether it be sushi or roasted chicken. Production is 70,000 bottles.

The 50th anniversary vintage. The first single vineyard white wine of Italy. Tuffeau and basalt. Calvarino is fermented in cement rather than the tank, as is used for the Classico. A broader sash of orchard fruits, verging toward toffee apple, mingle with ginger, orange blossom, rosemary, sage, almond and jasmine. 20-30% Trebbiano di Soave due to its affinity with volcanic soils. Saline and sappy, whilst also resinous and intense. A powerful wine that is paradoxically pixelated of detail, immensely saline and beautifully light on its feet. The sort of wine I challenge anyone not to love. Drinkable now, but best from 2025.